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What are plumbing vents & why do you need to vent pumps, toilets, & sinks?

No matter where you call home, if you've got indoor plumbing, you're going to need vents and you'll need to keep them clear.
No matter where you call home, if you’ve got indoor plumbing, you’re going to need vents and you’ll need to keep them clear.

One of the most recurring themes of our guides to installing sump pumps, sewage pumps, and macerating toilets for basements and half bathrooms is the need to vent them. It’s important, but if you don’t know what it means to vent your plumbing, you won’t be in a position to identify problems when they occur. Today we’re going to look at what plumbing vents are, why they’re necessary, which common issues affect them (e.g., blockage and damage), and how to fix them (or get help!).

What are plumbing vents?

Plumbing vents, which are commonly also called vent stacks, are miniature chimneys designed to regulate air pressure inside your plumbing system. Think of them as drain pipes for your plumbing system; instead of clearing water and waste, plumbing air vents clear gases and odors. They also bring in fresh air so water can flow effectively through your drain pipes. However, they don’t carry water; they are vertical pipes connected to drain pipes and they vent out through your roof. The pipe that runs to the main vent in your roof is the vent stack; it runs exhaust gases out of your home and keeps a safe atmospheric pressure in your plumbing system.

Why are plumbing air vents important for your home?

A sewage or sump pump like the M267 will require venting during installation.
A sewage or sump pump like the M267 will require venting during installation.

A plumbing system is designed to pump out waste and water; for it to work well, it needs fully functioning drainage and vent systems.

Your drain pipes run waste from your home to either city sewer lines or to septic tanks; you’ll need sewage pumps to pump waste to these lines if you install fixtures below them, or if you use a septic tank. Vent pipes bring fresh air to your plumbing fixtures–your bathtub, your sink, your toilet, and so on–via drain pipes. This occurs whenever water moves through a fixture, such as when you flush a toilet or drain a sink. Sump pumps and sewage pumps will also require venting in most cases.

Besides bringing fresh air to your fixtures, plumbing vents also keep sewer gases out of your home while venting out waste gases and odors (i.e., toxic fumes). This is why plumbing vent pipes are placed on roofs and far away from windows and air conditioning units; you want the fumes away from wherever they might get drawn into your home and into your lungs.

Which problems affect plumbing vent pipes, and how do you troubleshoot them?

The majority of macerating toilet kits (e.g., the Saniaccess 2) will require venting for proper and safe operation.
The majority of macerating toilet kits (e.g., the Saniaccess 2) will require venting for proper and safe operation.

If your plumbing vent stacks and air vents aren’t working well, your drainage system will soon let you know. The symptoms may present themselves in a number of ways, such as through gurgling noises from your drains, standing water in your bathtubs and sinks, or particularly slow water draining in your kitchen or bathroom. In any of these cases, you might be dealing with a blocked plumbing vent.

When your vent stacks stop working due to blockage, you’re going to build up negative pressure in your drain pipes and water flow will stop or become severely restricted. Even if you’re able to clear a clogged drain on your own, you’re going to experience water flow interruptions again and again if they’re due to a blocked vent.

If your drains are flowing slowly due to blocked vents, sediment can start forming and accumulating in your drain pipes; this can lead to further wear, tear, and damage in your plumbing system, and you might eventually need to have your pipes repaired or replaced.

How do you fix plumbing venting issues without calling a plumber?

The simplest and cheapest ways to clear slow-flowing drains involve plungers, augers (plumbing snakes), and drain cleaners, in that order. A plunger attacks drain blockages by creating dramatic pressure changes (vacuums) in the pipes that can clear mild stops. Augers mechanically attack blockages and attempt to physically remove or reduce them. Drain cleaners chemically target sediment deposits with the same overall goal of clearing your pipes.

In many cases, these tools will help you deal with mild venting issues. However, once you’ve got a completely blocked vent stack, none of these options will work, as you’ll be dealing with a vacuum. When there’s a vacuum present, you’ll no longer have air or water flow, and there’ll be no gurgling audible. This is where things get serious.

What are symptoms of fully blocked vents and when do you need to call a plumber?

With completely blocked vents, you’ll start smelling sewer gases in rooms with affected fixtures. For example, if your bathroom sinks are stopped up, the smell will start there. If it’s from a blocked sump pump vent, you’ll start smelling it in your basement. These gases are toxic; you don’t want to expose yourself, your loved ones, or your pets to them. In many cases, you’ll be dealing with methane gas, which isn’t as toxic at low levels as a range of other gases, but you don’t want to risk the life of your children and family by betting that whatever you’re smelling isn’t that harmful to your health.

At this point, you’re going to need to call a plumbing professional; while it’s possible to fully troubleshoot and clear clogged plumbing air vents on your own, it might involve roof work and significant risk to life and limb. Considering how rare blocked vents are relative to everything else that can go wrong with a plumbing system, this isn’t an area you want to spend lots of time becoming an expert.

If you find our work at PumpThatSump helpful, you can follow our relentless reviewing of every pump and fixture on the market by shopping via our links above for whatever you need to make your house a home. Despite being self-employed, we promise not to spend it all on health insurance.

Maintenance: How to Fix a Slow Water Supply from a Tankless Water Heater (Gas or Electric)

If you want your tankless water heater to flow like a Swedish river, follow our guide below.
If you want your tankless water heater to flow like a Swedish river, follow our guide below.

Tankless water heaters, like any other household device, are prone to reduced performance over time due to a variety of factors. We typically find that the quality of the incoming water (i.e., the water you receive from the city if you’re connected to a municipal system or the water you receive from a well or rainwater if you’re in a rural environment) has a lot to do with how quickly you experience flow issues.  If your tankless water heater isn’t giving you the water flow rate it used to when you installed it, you might need to flush the system. If you’re short on time or are afraid of tampering with electricity, you can hire a plumber, but it’s also more than possible to perform a simple tankless water heater flush on your own. We’ll go into how to do this in the section below. However, before describing the flushing process, let’s have a quick review of why flash water heaters tend to slow down to begin with.

Why do tankless water heaters slow down over time?

A small sump pump is a cheap and effective way to clean out your tankless water heater.
A small sump pump is a cheap and effective way to clean out your tankless water heater.

It’s important to remember that tankless water heaters don’t stop working without reason (well, the good models, anyway); if your water supply starts slowing down over time, it’s almost certainly going to be due to a poor water supply. Because instantaneous water heaters pump water at high pressures through small openings, you need decent-to high-quality water; naturally, the cleaner your water supply, the less likely you’ll be to have scaling (calcium and magnesium deposits) or microscopic sediment such as gravel, rocks, sand, or other particulates clog the apertures within your on-demand heater.

As a result, you’ll want to install a hard water softener upstream of your continuous water heater (i.e., in the water line that goes *to* your water heater) if you don’t already have one installed. A threshold we frequently recommend for installation is a local water hardness of 7 grains per gallon (gpg) or more, which translates to a ppm of 120 parts per million (ppm) or milligrams per liter (mg/l) or more. We have a local water hardness of 25(!) which is why we invested in a high quality water softener for our home and make similar recommendations for anyone in our area (the Chicago suburbs).

Now that we’ve covered why you’re likely experiencing a water slowdown in your tankless water heater, here’s how to fix it. You’ll probably need to do this on an interval between ever 6 months and every 2 years. To flush your heater you’ll need a small submersible sump pump (e.g., the Zoeller M53 or Wayne CDU980E), a 3-5 gallon bucket, a pair of hoses, and 3 gallons of vinegar (we prefer white vinegar).

Shut off all relevant power and fuel supplies

Before doing anything involving electricity and water, it’s essential to turn off both. That means turning off your water at the inlet and outlet valves for starters. If you’ve got a gas-powered tankless heater, you’ll also want to turn off your gas via a gas valve and either unplug the electrical power source or simply go to the circuit breaker the heater is connected to and turn off the relevant circuits. If you have an electric tankless heater, you’ll either want to turn off your 240-volt circuit breaker or find the disconnect switch on your electric sub panel and turn it off there. Finally, you’ll also want to let out the water pressure by pulling out the tab or switch in your unit’s pressure relief valve.

Remove the outer cover of the tankless water heater
Opening up a tankless water heater can be scary, but we promise they don't bite.
Opening up a tankless water heater can be scary, but we promise they don’t bite.

Depending on which kind of tankless water heater you have, the cover will disconnect somewhat differently, but there will typically be snaps (if you’re lucky) or a set of screws around the perimeter. You might need to wiggle the lid back and forth or lift it upward, sideways, or even slide it downward and out to disconnect it. Each cover is different, and reviewing your manual will be the quickest way to figure out how to open it (because you’ll need to open it from time to time to change the inline filter anyway).

Be on the lookout for proprietary or Torx-type screws, as these may require more specialized tools to open. Remove the cover carefully to avoid disconnecting any wires that may be connected to it internally and be sure to keep track of all relevant screws.

Fill the bucket with white vinegar and immerse the sump pump

First fill the bucket with 2 gallons of white vinegar; the mild acidity in the vinegar will help clean your lines out without damaging them or leaving residue. You’ll want to connect one hose to the heater inlet on one end and the sump pump on the other. The second hose will run from the water heater’s pressure-relief valve on one end to your vinegar bucket. Turn on or plug in your sump pump and let it run your vinegar infusion through your heater; we typically have it run for about 15 minutes, but if you’ve got a lot of scaling (the calcium and mineral deposits that make up hard water), you can let it run for up to 30 minutes.

Turn off the pump and clean the inline filter

Once enough time has run by, you’ll want to turn off your sump pump. Disconnect the housing that keeps the inline (screen) filter for your tankless water heater. The precise location will vary significantly from one water heater to the next, but it will typically be located just beside the water inlet, since this is the first line of defense of the water heater against the sediment we’re trying to flush out. Remove the screen filter carefully and clean it thoroughly with clean running water. If you can replace it, that’s even better, but if you can’t, you can put the same one back in. Keep in mind that a brand new filter will do a much better job at keeping your water flow healthy than a used and dirty one. At the same time, don’t get tempted to leave it out if you can’t replace it; a bad filter is better than no filter at all, and many tankless water heaters won’t run without one installed.

Remove the pump from the bucket

With a bit of luck, the next time you run water heated by your tankless heater, you should no longer experience any disruption in the water flow rate. However, it’s important to remember that there are many different kinds of tankless heaters out there, and the steps we outlined above aren’t going to be a cure-all for all of them. Furthermore, if the steps above do work for your particular setup, keep in mind that you will likely need to repeat them every 6 months to 2 years, depending on how frequently you experience a drop in water flow.

You’ll wan to err on the side of caution and perform the procedure more frequently over less, as if you put it off for too long, you can reach a point where your tankless heater’s piping becomes too clogged to clean through a basic approach like this. At that point, you might need to call in a professional. The biggest preventative tool you can install to reduce the rate at which you need to flush your heater and the risk of having a highly clogged one is to make sure you’re using a good water softener upstream, and to keep it stocked with the salt it needs to work.

If you find our work at PumpThatSump helpful, you can support our relentless reviewing of every sump pump on the market by shopping via our Amazon link for whatever you need to make your house a home. Despite being self-employed, we promise not to spend it all on health insurance.